Spring Tilling and Diging.

                         Last fall I tilled my vegetable plot and seeded fall rye, a green manure to be dug under in the spring. We have mainly a heavy clay soil here in the Cawston area, and composting is good for breaking it up and stopping it from compacting. clay is rich in nutrients and needs to be broke up so the plants can use it. left to its own it becomes hard for roots and locks up the iron and boron. I work in organic compost every year,but I like to apply a thickly grown green manure every second year. I knock it down about April 15 with my small cultivator, let it wilt for 2 weeks and work it in again. Left for another 2 weeks (mid May) and I am ready to start digging under my rows and start planting the early crops. Peas, Potatoes, Parsnips, Carrots and the cabbage family's. I transplant plants and sow the rest of the seeds on and after the 24 of May. Leaving the beans till last by June 1st, as they need warm soil lasting through the nights.

                                Tilling in my fall Rye

PLANTS for GREEN Manure:  Legumes ( pea and been family) as nitrogen fixers.

Alfalfa.

Clover.

Agricultural lupin.

Vetch:  All nitrogen fixing plants.

Others:  Such as Buckwheat, Rye, Oats, Millet, and Mustard.

All these need to be mowed or tilled under BEFORE they seed! To prevent self seeding.

                        Happy Cultivating! *_*

Daffodils, a sign of spring!

My Daffodils are in full bloom and look so bright! This year I have to dig them up and separate the bulbs. I give them a month after the flowers are done, about the end of May to dig them up. This gives them time to store up food for next year. Don't forget to prune the flower stalks when they wilt so they don't lose energy going to the seed head.

I shake off excess dirt and hang them to dry by their tops, in bunches like onions. when the tops are dry I prune the tops and any dry roots with my clippers. I let them dry another week spread out on newspaper and store them in a cool place in paper bags. I also dust them with some sulphide powder in the bag to kill any bugs or mold.

I will replant where I want in mid Aug. to give them a chance to develop a good root before freeze up. As I am going to change their location this year, so I will fill their old bed with annual flowers. the new bed will be well dressed with compost and peat moss, and after planting will be mulched with a couple inches of clean straw.

Garden Friends!

      Some vegetable plants grow great together. They can look quite showy in a group, and make your vegetable plot look like a work of art!

       Onion tops tend to blow over in the wind here, so I plant a long bed of 2 rows of carrots with 1 row or onions down the center, with enough space between to pass a pointed hoe. The bushy carrot tops hold up and protect the onions.

       I plant corn 4- 5 seeds to a hill early, with a pole in the center. when the weather is warm enough for them I plant 3-4 pole been seeds by the pole and transplant 2 cucumber plants at the sides of the hill. I  train the cukes to twine around and up through the corn, and it looks quite grand!

      Little beds on the edge of the garden in full sun for lettuce, green onions and radish, surrounding 1 or 2 Eggplants looks quite elegant!

      Fennel looks furn umbrellas growing over your cabbage, broccoli and Brussels sprouts and seams to repel ants and aphids

      Sunflowers look nice growing by the fence or gate, but remember to keep them away from your potatoes and pole beans.

       When planing where to put plants, think about you sprinkler flow and try to place tall at the back and sides and flow down to the shortest at the front, this also looks so nice to see.

        Mary golds are compatible to the garden, not too many (as too much can sour the soil) and chamomile for color and attracting the bee friends, Cosmos love the garden too!
                                                    Have Fun! *_*