Garden Adversary's

 Some vegetables in the garden do not like to be planted together or in the next row to each other, and do not do well.

 PLANT:                             GARDEN ADVERSARY:

 Asparagus;-------------Garlic, onion.

 Bean,bush;-------------Basil, fennel, kohlrabi, onion family.

 Bean, pole;-------------Basil, beet, cabbage, fennel, kohlrabi, onion family radish, sunflower.

 Beet;--------------------Mustard, pole bean.

 Broccoli;----------------Pole, Lama, and snap bean, strawberry.

 Brussels sprout;-------Kohlrabi, pole been strawberry.

 Cabbage;---------------Pole been, strawberry.

Cantaloupe;------------ Potato.

Carrot;------------------Celery, dill, parsnip.

Cauliflower;------------Pole been, strawberry.

Celery;------------------Carrot, parsnip.

Corn;--------------------Tomato.

Cucumber;--------------Potato, sage.

Eggplant;----------------None. 

Kale;---------------------Pole been.

Kohlrabi;----------------Pole bean.

Leek;---------------------Bean, pea.

Lettuce;------------------None.

Lima bean;--------------None.

Onion family;-----------Asparagus, bean, pea, sage.

Parsley;------------------None.

Parsnip;-----------------Caraway, carrot, celery.

Pea;----------------------Gladiolus, onion family, late potato.

Pepper;------------------Fennel, kohlrabi.

Potato;------------------Cucumber, Pumpkin,raspberry, rutabagas,squash family, sunflower, tomato, turnip. 

Pumpkins;--------------Potato.

Radish;------------------Hyssop.

Rutabaga;---------------Potato.

Spinach;-----------------Potato.

Squash;------------------Potato.

Strawberry;-------------Cabbage family.

Tomato;-----------------Pole bean, dill, fennel, potato.

Turnip;------------------Potato.

            Happy Planting Planing!!! *_* . 

A Spring Poem

"Similkameen Spring Returning"

Spring is returning to the Similkameen Valley,

The air is becoming soft and moist.

Soon the river will be full of Whitefish, 

Where once the Salmon used to run.

I love to watch spring returning to my valley,

Alternate days of sun, rain and snow.

I look forward to the river run off,

Watching the mountain lose it;s blanket of snow.

Spring is indeed returning,

when Pussy Willows bloom.

The hens are busy laying now,

The roosters crowing with delight.

Yes, spring is returning,

 The pruning all most done,

I look towards my garden tools,

And look for signs, of the first green sprouts

                               

 By; Jean wornell.

Pruning

                      It's Sunday and I am finishing my pruning. Bushes, willows, rose bushes and grapes. I burn my trimmings to kill any bug eggs, bugs and any scab or twig bores imbedded in the wood cuttings. This goes for any cuttings from fruit trees too. Makes a nice evening fire to roast some marshmallows on! *_*.

                      I trim my grapes back to 3 buds per branch stub that I keep, the stubs about 18" apart.

                      Fruit trees I snip off the suckers, and saw back any large branches I wish to shorten. Taking care to cut 1" after a bud. Take out all dead branches or twigs.

                      I have a climbing rose bush, so I just cut off the dead  ends, and train the rest on the trellis.

                      Its good to have a good book on gardening to peek at, to give you hints on taking care and trimming any berry bushes you may have. The different berries all have their own special way of pruning

                       Now is also a good time to surface clean the area around the bottoms of trees and berry bushes, fertilize and mulch, for a good spring bud feed. Also a good time to pull the winter mulch on the Strawberry Patch off to the side and let the sun and air in.

                         See you out in the yard! *_*.

The Compost

                                    I don't know how many of you already have a compost to use. but I really think it worthwhile to keep a good pile going. The dark rich soil created is useful for seed trays, house plants and just for feeding the garden flowers and vegetables. Cheaper than buying, and a useful way to dispose of garden waste and grass clippings. The secret to good and successful composting is "waste not want not". Throw everything into the pile! Weeds before they seed, vegetable peelings from the house (NOT Onions), grass clippings, leaves and the clean up from the garden in the fall.

 * Every time you throw stuff on the pile, throw a shovel full of dirt or old compost on the top

    Keeps it looking tidy, cuts down smell, most important "Gets it working"

 * Turn it over to mix it every week or 10 days, and for aeration.

                           If you want a pile "Cooked" for quick use cover with tarp or black plastic to heat up in the sun. Uncover every 3 days and turn over, it will get quite hot and will kill most weed seeds that may happen to be in there. Open piles need to be kept moist, I spray with a hose every time I turn, covered piles usually sweat and hold their moisture from wet material put into it, other wise wet it a bit. You don't want it soaking wet or you will drain or wash away the nutrients down into the ground.

                           When it becomes fluffy dark soil, its ready for use! *_*

Heritage Seeds

              Good morning! yesterday I spoke of planting organic and unmodified seeds and plants.I don't criticize any ones choices, but as I follow and believe  that the old traditional ways are the best and healthier, I will post and support those methods. For those gardeners who join me in organic methods, I will try to post places where Organic seeds and plants can be obtained, if you are not raising your own. "Heritage Seeds and Heirloom Seed Catalog For Organic Gardens" at wwwsaltspringseeds.com/ is a very good choice for us in BC. Many more can be found by Google for Heritage seeds.

              I find great success in raising all the garden seed I can for myself. I plant a few plants I want to save for seed in my flower beds away from where accidental cross pollinating can happen in the vegetable patch. Important for those "friendly cross pollinators" such as Peppers, tomatoes, and the squash family. Root crops which are Bi-annual seeders, I store in a cool, dry spot packed in straw until spring. Plant soon as soil can be turned after last hard frosts with light mulch on top. Except Parsnips, which can be left mulched down over winter in the garden, don't forget to put a stake in so you don't run over them with the tiller come spring!  

              I find 2 or3 annual plants (Broccoli, Swiss Chard and sometimes beets) left to go to seed, supply enough seeds for 2 or 3 years so I don't have to do this every year.( do not plant beets and chard close if you want seed, they will cross too) I find grown in my own garden, acclimatized to my own area seeds, have a high germination rate, and keep viable for a long time. Ive had carrot seeds sprout almost 100% after 5yrs.

              If you have questions on any of this, feel free to comment or Email I will get back to you! *_*

Planting Peppers!

                            First day of spring! The day I plant my pepper seeds into pots. I use tin can sized pots so I can transplant directly into the garden row with as little root disturbance as possible. I also use the soil from the garden, as I find the ants love any duffy potting soil as an easy place to nurse the aphids they later move up onto the plant. I don't like to give them any advantage. Organic gardening needs a bit of thought and lots of tricks! *_*. the seeds will take about 2 weeks to sprout, and that gives them 5 to 6 weeks to gain a nice size without getting to tall and skinny. If the soil from your garden is balanced, your pint sized pot will hold food enough until planting time. An organic transplanting food, (like compost tea) or fish fertilizer to be used at that time, to help the plants over the shock of the move.

                             Peppers are classed as "Friendly" pollinators, so if you have more than one kind, Hot and Sweet, do not plant close. Opposite ends of the garden is recommended. you could end up with hot sweets and not so hot hots! If you are a gardener who plants "Unmodified" and "Non hybrids" and want to save your own seed. Plant your seed plants out in your nice flower garden as an ornamental, and be sure of good pollination by bees attracted to the flowers. 

                               Where to plant in the garden??

                                Pepper Friends; Carrot, Eggplant, Onion, Parsnip, Pea and Tomatoes. Adversary;(don't plant next to) Fennel, Kohlrabi.

                                                      HAPPY PEPPERS!

                                            HAPPY FIRST DAY OF SPRING! *_*

Last day of winter!

            Was not a bad day, sunny with a cool wind. I got a lot more leaves than I need for compost, so I am burning those piles from weedy areas and saving the clean piles from the lawn. I see the Daffodils and Paper Whites are shooting up through the soil. I will have to wait until they are finished blooming to transplant now. have just about finished pruning so hopefully will get all burning done before end of spring break. 

            I will be seeding Peppers in trays tomorrow, that should make them ready for the garden at the end of May. any sooner and they get too spindly.

            I hope I don't confuse any followers by moving this post from the Backyard blog, but I will have a lot more room for posts this way. See you in a day or two! *_*

            Happy first "Day of Spring" tomorrow!

MARCH

March, 12;

                                     So today is not for outside chores, we have a "March Squall" in progress this morning, in the Keremeos-Cawston area. Today would be great for sorting through seeds and planning the garden rows. As pepper seeds take a while to sprout, now is the time to seed trays, or a pot or two, for later transplants to the garden. you want to time it for 6 to 8 weeks before June 1st, which is my recommended planting time for peppers. they like to be kept warm to hot!

                                      I like to scatter wildflower seeds at this time, I scratch up the soil where I want them, scatter seeds while its not windy. I cast a light layer of compost over the top, press in with the back of the rake and lightly cover with a fine, or straw mulch. its important to cover fine shallow seeds with mulch, as you want to keep the very top of the soil damp until the seeds sprout and develop roots.

                                   

                                       
          Saturday,09; 
                                      Enjoyed working outside today, windy but not too cool. I am going to save the pine needles for mulch on the flower beds, I cover them a little with compost, so they rot into a nice black nourishing mulch (7hp) that flowers love.
                                       Speaking of raking leaves, find a corner to pile them, sprinkle a little old compost between the layers, keep moist, soon you will have a great leaf-mold compost that is good food for your veggies, flowers, and house plants.
                                        For you who worry about weed seeds in composting, I compost every thing. Weeds and all. If you keep your pile mixed with dirt and fairly moist and cover with black plastic to heat it up, the heat will usually get hot enough to kill most seeds. any strays that pop up later as I use the soil I just pull and toss back into the compost pile. The trick to feeding weeds into the post pile, is to pull weeds before they go to seed. Some weeds like Knapp weed are very high in vitamin A.

  

             We should get the raking of leaves on the lawn to let the air and sun in, and to remove any rot and over-winter insects. Also rake and clean flower and bulb beds before young shoots show, to be damaged by the rake. It is also time to finish any pruning before the sap starts to run, which will be soon, to avoid fungus and mold in bleeding cuts.

             Now as the frost is out of the soil, quickly transplant any bulbs you wish to transplant before the shoots appear above ground. remember to water well to avoid and late frosts from seeping deep into the newly disturbed soil, and nipping the new shoots. a light mulch is also advised to keep warmth and moisture in as bulbs don't like over watering.